It was a very abrupt end to summer this year, wet, windy and cold. Try and get out into the garden on the dryer days, before the clocks change, to get the garden and allotment in good order. And please remember to put away unnecessary netting, and for netting still in use, ensure it is well secured to avoid trapping any birds and mammals.
CLEARING AND MULCHING
Try to clear perennial weeds now and mulch as you do so to stop any new weeds germinating. Options for mulching on bare beds include sowing a green manure, adding homemade compost, bought in composted manure, cardboard, and permeable membrane (temporary only and do not cover with plastic) Mulching will stop weeds, prevent the soil developing a hard crust (‘capping off’) in winter, and all but the membrane will add much needed organic matter into the soil.
Take down bean supports, trellises, netting etc and put away in a shed or somewhere else under cover. Bean and pea roots can be left in to break down in the ground as they are fairly rich in nitrogen. Just mulch over them.
The growth of salad crops will quickly decline as the temperature cools and daylight hours reduce; pull up and compost any that you can’t eat. With some tough plants, like sweetcorn, chop them up to speed up the composting process.
HARVESTING
Ripen the final tomatoes indoors, or make green tomato chutney.
Pull beetroot and carrots before the first frosts.
Courgettes and cucumbers can be pulled up as soon as they stop producing fruit.
Potatoes are ready for digging up and storing, they can be left until the first frosts.
Apples, pears, damsons and quince are ready now.
LEAVE TO GROW
Celeriac & Parsnips – harvest as you need them, but they will taste sweeter after the first frosts.
Swede & Turnips – you can leave these in the ground until you want to use them
Leeks – these will stand in the ground over autumn and winter, so harvest them as and when you want to use them.
Cabbages – these will stand well in the ground, so you can harvest them when they reach a good size.
Cauliflowers – best to harvest as soon as the heads reach full maturity, and before any hard frosts.
Winter Squash & Pumpkins – harvest once the skins are tough (you shouldn’t be able to pierce the skin with a thumbnail) – this is usually towards late October,
Rocket – this will overwinter in this area
Sprouts – depending on the cultivar, they will be ready to harvest as you need them, some late varieties cultivars are not ready until December. Protect from from slugs and pigeons!
Sprouting Broccoli – this might pause from producing florets until early spring
Spinach, Chard, Kale – as long as these look healthy, continue cropping and leave them to grow on
FRUIT JOBS
Autumn is the perfect time for planting perennial fruit. The plants spend the time when they're dormant upstairs, producing roots downstairs, so they are raring to go by spring. You can buy dwarf trees and plants ‘bare root’ which is the cheaper and more environmental option. Have a look at Blackmoor Nurseries, a tried and tested supplier. There is a £5 discount per order for WAHGA members. Order now for November planting.
Raspberry canes can be ordered now for planting in November
Blueberries can be planted now, they do well in large pots filled with ericaceous compost as they are acid loving plants.
Gooseberries, currants and other soft fruit, which are not readily available in the supermarket, are also worth trying out.
On an allotment, and small/medium gardens, fruit trees should be on dwarf root stock to keep a short sturdy tree. This results in heavy cropping and easy harvesting. It also enables you to have two or three varieties even on a small plot. Perhaps try something unusual like apricot or greengage. Step-over trees are another option; perfect for edging a border, or Cordon trees which are ideal for hiding a shed in the garden.
Cut back the fruited canes of summer raspberries, blackberries, tayberries. Tie in the new growth of blackberries and tayberries to create a structure for next season.
Pot on strawberry runners, and tidy up your strawberry bed to prevent overcrowding
VEGETABLE SOWING AND GROWING
There have been a lot of queries about what can be grown now.
A number of plants can be sown indoors, hardened and then planted outside, particularly if you have cover.
Spring cabbage can be planted close together, every other plant can then be harvested as greens, before the heart of the cabbage forms.
Onion sets and garlic can be planted now; they both have a long growing season and will be ready next summer
Salad leaves, such as Lamb's lettuce, can be sow and left to grow under cover.
Broad beans can be sown towards the end of the month - Aquadulce Claudia is one of the best choice for autumn sowing, and also Franchi seeds Aguadulce Supersimona - don’t forget to use your WAHGA discount if buying from Valentina Deli in Weybridge High Street!
IN THE GARDEN
IF we have some dry days give the lawn a high mow. You can scarify, but be careful if this wet weather continues, don’t risk churning up the lawn. Reseed any bare patches and give an autumn feed.
It’s the perfect time to divide herbaceous perennials. Depending on the plant dig up, split and replant. Take cuttings from plants such as Salvia and Penstemon. Its also a good time to take cuttings from pelargoniums, roses, lavender and rosemary to name a few!
Autumn is the ideal time to plant new shrubs and herbaceous perennials. They spend the dormant period over winter developing a strong root system. Roses will be available bare root to plant soon.
And yes, it’s bulb planting season! It’s definitely worth it when you see crocus and dwarf daffs in February, with the follow through of all the other spring bulbs. Delay planting tulips until the weather cools a bit more, but other bulbs can be planted now. To deter squirrels and mice from digging bulbs up in pots, top the pot with winter annuals such as viola or primula.
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